Exploring Siena

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

I swore I would not "do Paris in a day." Before departing for Italy, I promised myself that I would not jump from one country to the next, racking up European destinations like frat boys hoarding empty beer bottles as trophies of accomplishment. When possible, I would travel to other countries but, first and foremost, I would really get to know Italy and Siena in particular. In that aspect, today has been a great success.

After my dreaded Italian quiz, we had our first Presence of the Past field study. We met at the Basilica of San Domenica where both 'Presence' professors (one speaks English and the other, Italian) met us. Inside of the Basilica we learned (in both English and Italian) about the architecture of the church that displays characteristics of both Medieval and Renaissance art. We also saw where the supposed head of St. Catherine of Siena (my patron saint) is preserved. Afterwards, our director Amanda was very excited to bring us to the "Sala delle lupe," a room within the Palazzo Pubblico generally closed to the public. The room connects to the mayor's office and houses two recently restored she-wolf statues that were hollowed out inside to acted as rain drains in Medieval times (by far the coolest gutters I've ever seen).

We were let out of class early and I couldn't resist a long walk in the absolutely perfect weather. I decided to find out how much time it would take to walk from my apartment (right outside the city wall) to the opposite city wall. At a steady pace, it took between 20-25 minutes which isn't very long, especially considering that I circumnavigated several tourist groups and was (briefly)distracted by the countless window displays.

Outside the city wall, curiosity pulled me past the Fortress and landed me in front of what looked like a garden. After loitering around the entrance, trying to decide if I was trespassing or not, I finally walked through the archway and found myself in a cemetary. The most beautiful cemetery I have ever seen. The large, marble mausoleums and raised gravestones covered in colorful flowers sat peacefully in the shade of palm trees and distant mountains. Because it was deserted, I snapped a few quick photographs and headed out as two old Italians were entering, large bouquets in hand.

On the way back to my side of the city I took multiple detours, wandering in and out of side streets in search of places I had never seen. Back on the main via after getting lost in the maze of Siena's backstreets, I walked into a ceramics shop and asked the woman, in very broken Italian, for holy water fonts. Hearing my imperfect pronunciation, she asked if I was a student and, upon learning that I am here for a semester, explained, in Italian, how she hand makes every piece of art in the shop. The detail is truly remarkable, but it was her patience with my Italian that blew me away. Though her work was a bit pricey and not exactly what I was looking for, she gave me her card and told me to visit again and practice my Italian with her. I will absolutely take her up on that offer and I can't wait.

Tonight has been quiet, just some gelato (tiramisu and riso) on the Campo with the girls. I'm not sure I'll ever be able to eat ice cream in the States again...