Study Break!

Before....

...And after

Monday, October 26, 2009

After a morning of taking midterms and registering for classes and after an evening of studying for exams and stressing about presentations, my lovely roommate Sarah gave our apartment a study break stress-reliever in the form pizzookie: a giant chocolate chip cookie not fully cooked and covered in vanilla gelato.

Now sick to our stomachs, sporting impressive food babies, and on a slap-happy sugar rush, we return to our books. (Fittingly, I'm back to reading the torments of the gluttonous in Dante's Inferno)

Thank you, Sarah!!

Yum.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

After a long day of studying [cramming] for midterms, my roommates and I treated ourselves to dinner at a real, grown-up, sit-down restaurant. We chose a place in Piazza del Mercato that Sarah had found in her guidebook and where we could sit outside in a heated tent.

Always indecisive, I asked the waiter to take my order last as I went back and forth between dishes. In the end, I let him decide between the minestrone and the ribollita. He immediately chose the ribollita, a Tuscan vegetable and bread soup that I had never before tried.

What I learned from my experience? Trust your waiter.

We finished the night at my latest gelato obsession, Gelateria Caribia. As I ordered my usual tirimasu and chocolate mousse from the servers who now know me, I lamented over the fact that they close for the winter on November 1st. The girls behind the counter laughed when I told them that I would eat gelato outside in February; they thought I was kidding.

I suppose this just means I will be forced to eat pastries once the cold weather sets in...

The Week of Pope Pius II

Friday, October 23, 2009

I have finally seen the inside of Siena's Duomo and it is magnificent. This week my Presence of the Past class went on two field studies to Pienza and the Duomo di Siena. Pienza is the birthplace of Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini, a humanist who became Pope Pius II and rebuilt his hometown in Renaissance fashion, making it one of the first examples of urban planning in history.

The Palazzo Piccolomini is a grandiose structure with large, open rooms full of ornate pieces of art and furniture. Yet the 3 euro tour may not have been worth it if not for the view from the loggia. Overlooking a geometrically-designed garden, the loggia provides for a spectacular view of the Val d'Orcia. Looking out past the garden and into the distant landscape, I felt more at peace in those few moments than I have in a long time.

Over two hours in transit to and from Pienza made the fifteen minute walk to the Duomo a much more managable field study. After having lived here for 8 weeks (!!!) and admiring the cathedral from the outside, I was excited to finally get a peak inside and found that it was worth the wait. Enormous, the Duomo is overwhelming at first glance. To your left, to your right, up, and down there are remarkable works of art everywhere you look. My professor focused on the floor and spent two hours describing the meanings of various scenes depicted in the marble.

Most impressive to me was the Piccolomini library. Completely covered in brightly colored frescoes depicting the life of Pope Pius II, the walls, ceiling, and floor are spectacular. It's astonishing that the colors have remained so vivid and the impact is truly striking. I cannot but be amazed every time I walk into a cathedral in Italy; each one is impressive, so richly decorated, so elaborately designed. The lengths to which people will go to honor their faith is incredible.

Next week start midterms. Wish me luck!

Charlie the Chocolate Baby

Saturday, October 17, 2009

My name is Cara McMenamin and I am a chocaholic. In fact, I am so obsessed with the rich, dark, sugary sweet that I am willing to wake up at 4:30am on a cold fall morning, walk twenty minutes to a train station, and then take three separate trains and one bus just to spend the day feeding my addiction.

Today I traveled to the annual Chocolate Festival in Perugia for a full day in Chocolate Paradise. Having foolishly waited until Wednesday to reserve my seat on the one bus from Siena to Perugia, I was truly devastated to learn that it was sold out and that I might not be able to get to the one festival I had been looking forward to since my arrival in September. Thankfully, I was not the only procrastinator in my group and soon learned that the two Mollys and their Italian roommate, Serena, were also chocolate fanatics willing to go to almost any lengths to foster their addictions. Thus, the decision was made to buy the very last tickets for the bus ride back from Perugia and then purchase train tickets for a 6am departure to the festival on Saturday.

At 5:15 I met the girls on the deserted streets of Siena and we booked it to the train station to catch our first ride. Three hours and three trains later, we arrived in Perugia where we took a bus to the city center. During the trip, our mutual discomfort with the reality of growing up resulted in the collective consensus that marriage and other signs of maturity are in fact, still light-years away. So, while the idea of ever having real children was shooed off as something to be considered only decades in the future, Serena suggested that we instead work on creating chocolate babies today because, as she said, “for this I am ready.” Thus, we left the train station with the full intention of stuffing ourselves enough for two.

As we rode up the elevator on to the main street our eyes lit up and we knew that rising before the sun was absolutely worth it. Left, right, up, down – everywhere you looked vendors stood behind elaborate displays of chocolate towers and hot chocolate stations offering you the delectable treat in every form you could possibly imagine. From the conventional bars of dark, milk, and white chocolate to the most innovative creations like chocolate pasta (picture #2), chocolate with olive oil, and chocolate beer, the Perugian vendors offered the mob-like crowd an endless selection of sweet. Because we had arrived so early, we decided that it was worth purchasing a 5euro choc-card which got us samples at a variety of stations throughout the festival, including the thickest dark chocolate hot chocolate I’ve ever drunk/eaten, a wine tasting, and a package of “chocolate medicine.”

First we taste-tested and then we bought and then we taste-tested some more. In between our sugar highs we even managed to enjoy some of Perugia’s beautiful architecture, landscape, and history. We walked inside the city’s first well fed by warm springs, found a fresco by Raphael, and took a peek into the impressive duomo. By the time the bus arrived at 5:30, we were cold, exhausted, and quickly crashing from our day-long sugar rush, but the ride back was significantly easier than the one going and much more satisfying now that we were lugging bags of goodies.

Oh, and my chocolate baby’s name is Charlie (who I hope may one day own a chocolate factory).

Just another "breathtaking view"

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Is it really only Thursday? I barely remember the beginning of this week; it seems to have crawled by. At the same time, midterms are fast approaching and I am terrified of the fact that I'm nearly at the halfway point of the semester.

My Presence of the Past class took a field trip to San Gimignano on Wednesday. The city, known mostly for it's plethora of towers and it's award-winning gelateria, is reminiscent of Siena with fewer Italians and six times the tourists. After a frightening climb up several flights of stairs and one rickety ladder, we reached the top of the tower for a breathtaking view (yes, I know this is my most overused phrase but there's no other way of describing it...) of the Tuscan countryside. Afterwards, we took a taste test of the Pluripremiata Gelateria's "2006-2009 world champion" gelato and learned why it's the best (though I can still point you to a better 'tiramisu' in Siena...)

When we got back, I went to the bus station to purchase my ticket for the only bus to the chocolate festival in Perugia this Saturday and was horrified to learn it was sold out. Fortunately, I wasn't the only one who procrastinated and today I bought a ticket for a 6am train to Perugia and snagged one of the 9 spots on the bus coming back. I still get to stuff myself silly on some of the world's best chocolate this Saturday!

For now, I think I'll take advantage of the internet and catch up on some sleep (I need to be well rested for such an early Saturday of chocolate-testing)

Poker Buddies

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

I finally found a poker game! Since my arrival in Italy I've been itching to play and repeatedly disappointed to find that most people in my group don't even know how. Last night, after a short trip to Kroeg, (my Dante professor's favorite bar) I played one game for one euro with two Americans and two Italians. Though I had a rough start, I went "all in" six times and recovered five. In the end, I took second place and won one euro. More importantly, I made some Italian (poker-playing!) friends. Great night.

Tasha in Tuscany!

Sunday, October 11, 2009

This morning I finally got the opportunity to act as the tour guide and not the tourist. My best friend Tasha is studying in Spain this semester and she and several girls from her group took a long weekend to tour Tuscany, including a day in my favorite city of Siena. Around 1:30 we met at the Duomo and, after enjoying giant slices of cheesy, melty pizza goodness, we met up with my apartment’s gelato aficionado, Sarah, before heading to KopaKabana for our daily gelato fix. We didn’t have too much time and spent most of it wandering the streets and enjoying the architecture from the (free) outside but there’s nothing quiet like seeing a familiar face when you’ve spent the past month is an foreign city with new people. Only three weeks until our Freeman reunion in Paris!

Culture in the Morning, Leather in the Afternoon

Saturday, October 10, 2009

David is HUGE. I’ve heard that, after having been bombarded with replications of the Mona Lisa all their lives, tourists viewing the original masterpiece are most surprised by its size. I never knew the same was true for Michelangelo’s David.

Early this morning, Sarah and I hopped on a bus to Florence with the intention of filling our minds with culture before emptying our wallets for leather goods. We arrived at the station and made our way through the street vendors (trying not to be lured by their leather jackets, pretty jewelry, and cute clothes) in the direction of the gigantic dome so symbolic of the duomo. Having read an entire book on the construction of “Brunelleschi’s dome,” this particular stop was my special request. Though the dome itself was under construction and I was unable to walk directly underneath it, I now understand why it is still considered such a remarkable achievement. Even an architectural know-nothing such as myself can appreciate the genius required to construct such a dome without modern technology.

After the the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, we headed in the direction of San Lorenzo (again, per my request). In sophomore year I studied the church that Brunelleschi began and that Michelangelo contributed to. Though the church itself was surprisingly simple, the altar was incredibly ornate and the New Chapel was beautiful.


To complete our culturally-infused morning, we walked in the direction of the Accademia, the home of David. Having been tipped off to make a reservation beforehand, we paid a small fee that allowed us to forgo several hours in line and a massive security point traffic jam. And while the fact that there is no discount for students made the outrageous price more infuriating; I absolutely believe that the cost is worth it. David is massive: ten times larger than I had imagined and its size only adds to the force with which it commands your attention. Usually one who finds the small, off-to-the side pieces of art more interesting than the featured, famous ones, I found myself continuously drawn back to David. It was brilliant.

Having been successfully immersed in Florentine history, we now allowed ourselves to take a look at the merchants we had been eyeing all morning. The mission was to find real leather boots but we soon learned that the vendors sell only purses and jackets, and the stores charge well above our price range. This wasn’t really a problem because we were surrounded by hundreds of other pretty things for sale and I finally decided on a red leather handbag that I love. Wednesday I go boot shopping at the Sienese market.

Above: Graffiti on the bathroom stall in the Academia.

Fried Green…Zucchini?

Friday, October 9, 2009

Eagles eat better than owls. Last night, thanks to the fact our IES director is a member of the Palio’s winning contrada, (the civetta) our entire class experienced a victory dinner. Since their gigantic feast in the Piazza del Campo last Saturday night, the contrada has held a variety of smaller, themed dinners throughout the week. Last night, the celebration was dedicated to the women of the contrada, meaning that all of the “most important” men of the clan dressed like women (or more like transvestites). While Italian men struggling in heels, short skirts, and outrageous wigs were highly amusing, the night offered an interesting peek into the conception of women in Italy. While the men were either decked out as drag queens or ladies of the night, the women celebrated their sex by donning ruffled aprons, dust collectors, and rolling pins. The surprisingly “stereotypical” representation of the female sex shocked most of us Americans accustomed to politically correct, NOW-approved depictions of women.

After having overindulged ourselves at the Aquila contrada party several weeks back, my roommates and I were prepared for copious amounts of phenomenal food. And, while the wine (and champagne) flowed freely, the food was a bit bizarre. Fried mozzarella, fried zucchini, fried onions, fried rosemary, and/or fried duck started us off; strangely more reminiscent of a southern cookout than of an Italian neighborhood party. A plate of rice then served as the one non-fried course, followed by French fries and either chicken or rabbit prepared (you guessed it!) by a quick drop in the deep fryer. The dinner ended (around midnight) with a few pieces of fruit swimming in chocolate sauce. It was a nice meal, but nothing compared to the out-of-this-world meats we ravished with the Eagles.

Having consumed so much wine and (comparatively) so little food, many of us were exhausted and queasy when we arrived at the Palazzo Chigi Saracini this morning. The Palazzo is a beautiful musical academy full of ornate furniture and hundreds of pieces of art. The tour was in Italian and last only an hour, giving us all time to come back and at least attempt to nap in this ADD rain/pretty weather we’re enjoying. Once again, our apartment is without internet, leaving me disconnected from the world until the IES center opens on Monday or Vodafone miraculously begins to work again, whichever happens first.

ohmygosh I'm studying abroad

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Today I experienced an "ohmygosh I'm studying abroad" moment. Having now lived in Siena for over a month, (that realization is an 'ohmygosh' moment in itself...) I've grow accustomed to the stunning buildings and breathtaking views. Don't get me wrong; the fact that I am living in Tuscany for a semester is still a very surreal idea that I probably won't fully grasp until I'm back on the dirty streets of the Bronx. But every time I leave my apartment, I'm just a little less taken aback by the cobblestone streets and Gothic architecture that I now see every morning.

But today my Presence of the Past field study class took a trip to the famous Palazzo Pubblico to see Ambrogio Lorenzetti's Affreschi del Buon Governo; a room of frescoes that I first saw on a slide in my Early Modern Art class sophomore year. I walked through the beautifully painted halls and into the most famous room of the Palazzo and, for the first time, understood the unique experience of viewing an original piece of art. The fresco was massive, covering three gigantic walls, and it momentarily stopped my breath. The allegory, so perfectly thought out and brilliantly executed, is a powerful promotion of a republican form of government and it is easy to understand how such a room inspired those officials who once governed there.

As I stood looking up at the 'effects' of a good government, it suddenly hit me that I am studying abroad where I have the opportunity to see and experience art, architecture, culture, and language that I have spent years studying in textbooks and viewing on slides. And that is an "ohmygosh" moment.

Grape Stompers, Disco Dancers, and Soccer Fanatics

Sunday, October 4, 2009

On Friday, with the full intention of getting a head start on my homework, I walked down to the Campo with my “Presence of the Past” reading. Of course, situating myself in such a prime “people watching” location, I got nothing done and instead decided to stop by the ceramic shop and see if Simonitta was working. As I approached the shop she was standing outside and immediately hugged and kissed me, pulling me inside to show off her newest piece of art: a plate for her friend decorated with two salsa dancers and a poem. We talked (in Italian!) about salsa dancing, my classes, Sienese art, and the “mysteries of the heart.” Before I left she gave me her work schedule and made me promise to return for another chat—I can’t wait.

Saturday morning, I woke up just before the buzzer rang and the newest member of Via Vittorio Emanuele, Samanta, finally moved in to complete our apartment! From Sicily, she is a 22 year-old graduate student and self proclaimed “love doctor;” I can already tell that she is going to fit right in.

After meeting our roommate, Sarah and I headed to Poggibonsi for the preliminary round of “Il Pigio,” the annual Tuscan grape-stomping contest. We arrived early and soon realized that we had discovered Podunk, Italy. All the stores were closed, all the streets were deserted, and even the grape stompers sauntered in to the competition only moments before it began. But once the race was underway, the crowd got heated and the seven districts of Poggibonsi (each with its own color) were out in full force with flags, wigs, and horns. Two teams competed for 7 minutes at a time as several competitors filled up barrels with grapes, one or two actually stomped, and another team member pushed the juice through the nozzle. At the end of the seven minutes, each team poured its grape juice into a clear box and the victor moved on to the next round. The winner will not be declared until the last match this afternoon, but my money's on the orange team, last year’s reigning champ and the only district to fill the glass box to the rim.

Sarah and I decided against waiting around for the “night show” competition so that we could be back in Siena in time to go to the discoteca with the ladies. A bus left Siena around 11:15 and we weren’t allowed into the club until midnight, but I have learned that European discotecas really are outrageous; strobe lights, disco balls, and smoke machines included. I finally got the chance to dance and I we all had a good time. We caught the “early” 2:30 bus back to Siena and, needless to say, we then had a slow start this morning.

When we did get moving, several of us headed to the stadium for our first Italian soccer game experience. And it certainly is an experience. The only thing more intense than the angry Italian men booing their own team is the process required to get into the stadium. I had to bring my passport and confirm my name and date of birth just to buy my ticket and then went through several security check points to get into the stands. The Siena soccer team dominated Livorno on the field, but never managed to score and it was a disappointing 0-0 finish. Still, an Italian soccer game is a phenomenal experience.

It’s been a weekend of firsts: first grape stomping contest, first European disco, first Italian soccer game. And even though I’m exhausted and probably getting sick, each "first" was more than worth a sore throat and a stuffy nose. I managed to record a bit of the competion, watch for yourself and see what I mean :)

What happened?

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Today marks the one month anniversary of my arrival in Italy. Where did September go?