Friday, October 23, 2009I have finally seen the inside of Siena's Duomo and it is magnificent. This week my Presence of the Past class went on two field studies to Pienza and the Duomo di Siena. Pienza is the birthplace of Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini, a humanist who became Pope Pius II and rebuilt his hometown in Renaissance fashion, making it one of the first examples of urban planning in history.
The Palazzo Piccolomini is a grandiose structure with large, open rooms full of ornate pieces of art and furniture. Yet the 3 euro tour may not have been worth it if not for the view from the loggia. Overlooking a geometrically-designed garden, the loggia provides for a spectacular view of the Val d'Orcia. Looking out past the garden and into the distant landscape, I felt more at peace in those few moments than I have in a long time.
Over two hours in transit to and from Pienza made the fifteen minute walk to the Duomo a much more managable field study. After having lived here for 8 weeks (!!!) and admiring the cathedral from the outside, I was excited to finally get a peak inside and found that it was worth the wait. Enormous, the Duomo is overwhelming at first glance. To your left, to your right, up, and down there are remarkable works of art everywhere you look. My professor focused on the floor and spent two hours describing the meanings of various scenes depicted in the marble.
Most impressive to me was the Piccolomini library. Completely covered in brightly colored frescoes depicting the life of Pope Pius II, the walls, ceiling, and floor are spectacular. It's astonishing that the colors have remained so vivid and the impact is truly striking. I cannot but be amazed every time I walk into a cathedral in Italy; each one is impressive, so richly decorated, so elaborately designed. The lengths to which people will go to honor their faith is incredible.
Next week start midterms. Wish me luck!
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